Men's Non-no August 1998 issue. The cover is Masatoshi Nagase.
What kind of year is 1998?
Before introducing the magazine, let's take a look at what kind of year 1998 was.
・ 1998 FIFA World Cup (France Tournament) opening
・ Windows 98 released
・ Established Google
・ Nagano Olympics opening
・ hide died
・ IMac released in Japan
The impact of the collapse of the bubble in 1991 continued even in 1998, seven years later, and in 1997, it started mainly in Thailand, and the Asian currency crisis, in which the currencies of Asian countries fell sharply, occurred.
The employment situation was also extremely difficult, with the unemployment rate rising 0.7% from the previous year to 4.1% and the ratio of job offers to applicants to a record low.
Private consumption has been sluggish due to the increase in the consumption tax rate in 1997 and employment insecurity due to the collapse of a major bank. Due to the credit crunch of financial institutions, corporate capital investment has decreased, and the business conditions index, which is an indicator of the economy, is also low. The economy was sluggish.
Movie (released in Japan)
Is it because of such a situation, or because of such a situation? Many movies are hits. Personally, there are many works that have received a lot of attention in terms of culture, such as the movie version of Evangelion, which was very much influenced at that time.
Bayside Shakedown the movie
Men in Black
Love & pop
Neon Genesis Evangelion Theatrical Version DEATH (TRUE) ² / Air / Magokoro to you
Muthu Dancing Maharaja
New Mobile Report Gundam W Endless Waltz Special Edition
Saving Private Ryan
Top 5 hits
The same goes for music, with B'z's best album surpassing the highest ever (at that time) of 5 million, and the number of CDs produced in Japan reached a record high of about 457.17 million, the peak of the CD bubble. Will be greeted.
1st place GLAY: "Temptation"
2nd place SMAP: "Yozora No Mukou"
3rd place SPEED: "my graduation"
4th place BLACK BISCUITS: "Timing"
5th place GLAY: "SOUL LOVE"
Even now, it's a cool street military mix
Now, let's return to the introduction of the magazine. Like movies and music, I think Japanese fashion in this era was very rich. Masatoshi Nagase on the cover is the leading fashionable actor at the time. Masaki Suda, as I say now, may be more than that. The T-shirt he wears is an Undercover.
The advertisement for NTT DoCoMo's pager is Ryoko Hirosue, who passed Waseda University this year. A short-sleeved knit with a color scheme similar to her Ringer T-shirt, and a gingham plaid skirt.
Casio G-SHOCK advertisement.
The Nissan Cube advertisement is Gamon Kaai and Hitoshi Kusano.
The special feature at the beginning is "Military Frontline".
The model on the left may be familiar to many people.
Ms. Masashi Watanabe, who later launched the fashion brand Bedwin and the Heartbreakers. The styling is Takashi Kumagai.
I was distracted by Mr. Masashi Watanabe, but the coordination called DC SHOE, which is rugged on the top and bottom of the nylon on the right page, is very cool.
A mix of military items and street brands such as Tenderloin and Lowrider. All the coordination is cool. Personally, I like the coordination on the left and middle of the right page.
The camouflage pattern on the left of the right page, cargo shorts, and Birkenstock sandals are also nice.
Taste mix is creative
"Paris / London / Tokyo Fashion Paparazzi '98".
Actually, when I saw this page, I remembered that I had this issue at that time. His outfit in London was very impressive. Especially the right page. I really liked the mix of sunglasses like the hide promotion video above, the W & LT T-shirt inside the adidas track jacket, and the W & LT underwear, and the pants were old jeans.
Also, I remember thinking that it would be nice not only to have an avant-garde designer brand like W & LT, but also to wear beautiful clothes. As with the military page above, I think the late 90's was an era when creators and users were trying to mix various elements. And that's why I think it's unique and fresh even now.
He is the manager of Browns, a long-established select shop in London, with a simple impression. Mainly designer brands such as Raf Simons, Helmut Lang, Prada and Comme des Garcons.
After all shoes are square toe.
The coordination on the right, jeans is Evisu.
Tokyo. This is also a mix coordination, such as matching used clothes with designer brands such as Christophe Lemaire, W & LT, and Paul Smith. He on the left commented, "I want to study more about the tech that mixes mode and used clothing."
"Steal the dressing tech of Parisian!". Impression that there are many sneakers like skate shoes at your feet.
Basically simple coordination is the main focus.
As for jeans, "Levi's", "Diesel" and "G-STAR" are popular.
Color denim, platform sneakers, and sporty lined tops are also like this era.
The enthusiastic boom of high-tech sneakers has already passed, and it was a time when people who liked it were wearing it.
Could you reproduce the original color of the Footscape ...
"You can take in used clothes well and match colors without spending money. The latest in the London spirit that shines with creative coolness!" The track jacket has a strong image of London.
"Used clothing is the realm of men who know what suits them."
"Wide pants are paired with tight T-shirts and knits. It gives you a nice masculinity." The feeling of finding masculinity in a tight silhouette is interesting.
Following the snaps of ordinary people in Paris, London, and Tokyo, the snaps of industry people in Tokyo. The first are models.
Yusuke Iseya. Ann Demeulemeester's "holy" tank top worn by the white model on the right was a popular item at the time.
Designers and stylists.
Mr. Yasuhiro Mihara and Mr. Tomoyuki Tanaka of FPM (Fantastic Plastic Machine).
A brand called Bolty that develops hair styling products such as mousse and wax. … Is there something like this? I don't remember seeing it.
Cheap clothes = used clothes featured in the era when used clothes were the choice
Used clothing special feature. "Cheap and smart! Fashion changes with used clothes". In 1999, there was no concept of fast fashion yet. The existence of UNIQLO has become known as a fleece blockbuster, but many of its products are still not fashionable. So, the situation at that time was that cheap clothes = almost used clothes.
Olive-colored tank top.
It is the number 44 product of the select shop that has established the popularity of used Euro clothing in Japan.
As it is men's non-no, 70s has a strong mode flavor.
As I introduced in the previous article, the focus is on mix coordination between used clothing and designer brands.
The impact of "The Great Prophecy of Nostradamus" on fashion
"T-shirt catalog final round". By saying, "The power of Tokyo indies is fully open when they lose to Osaka!", I remember that many indie brands in Osaka were being developed at individual select shops at that time.
I had this issue at the time, and I feel like I imitated this blood-splashing paint print and made something similar myself.
Poker Face, a glasses shop that was mainly located in Kansai. At that time, I used the original glasses from this shop as fake glasses. I did my best and was fashionable lol
Is the central price range about 3,800 yen to 5,800 yen? It's generally more affordable than it is now.
Now popular music T. Will it soar here as well?
T-shirts with prominent body colors such as orange and yellow also make you feel the atmosphere of this era.
And it is this "end of the century" that has the atmosphere of this era in particular.
The book "The Great Prophecy of Nostradamus" released in 1973 published the interpretation that "Humanity will be destroyed in the month of July 1999", and the book became a big boom. It was pointed out that Aum Shinrikyo, which was the forerunner of the occult boom and later caused the subway sarin attack, became a popular distant cause, and had a great influence on Japanese culture. Part of that can be seen in Men's Non-no in this way.
Looking back, I think that Japanese designer brands such as 20471120, Beauty Beast, and Undercover had a strong atmosphere that felt a little dark, scary, and frightening.
As of 2021, Japanese designer brands at that time were highly evaluated overseas, and archives were bought and sold, and one of the reasons is that it is a unique world view that contains such darkness. I think there is no doubt.
With that in mind, it can be said that the "Great Prophecy of Nostradamus" helped to create the individuality of the Japanese designer brand. … Is it a little exaggerated? However, I don't think it has anything to do with it, so I would like to continue researching these themes.
Verdy → Wacko maria → Udon restaurant
"Cool! Sports items aiming for now". On the right page, Nike's swoosh logo T-shirt is matched with Brico's sunglasses, which were popular at the time. The champion sweatshirt blouson on the left page is introduced as "I like the simplicity of one step before rudeness"
As mentioned on the T-shirt page, BMX wear such as FOX also appeared frequently in magazines at that time. The model on the left of the left page is Keiji Ishizuka, a soccer player from Yomiuri Verdy.
After retiring, he launched the fashion brand Wacko Maria and became popular, but now it seems that fashion brands are also being developed while running a udon shop in Spain.
View this post on Instagram
Unlike now, outdoor wear is mainly dull in color.
Gray pants are Gramicci. Adidas' masterpiece, Bad Lander, is a sneaker with an eye-catching orange accent on the beige on the right.
The atmosphere of the advertisement on the right page, Racine is good.
"Summer bargain complete itinerary". There are many TransContinents stores. At that time, I think there was a shop in the old settlement in Kobe, but it wasn't on this list.
Individual select shops and designer brands.
Chit Chat Chot, a select shop in Osaka. That's nostalgic. They dealt with popular designer brands such as Vivienne Westwood and Helmut Lang.
Left page, Menicon advertisement. Ryuichi Kawamura.
There was a brand called Helmut Lang shirt. At that time, there was a licensed brand called Helmut Lang Underwear, but the shirt was new to me. The contact information is Bus stop, and it seems that it is not a licensed brand considering the price. Was it short-lived?
Number 44 original tote bag. At that time, the tote bag with an elegant impression despite its military taste was very fresh.
Right page, Chanel advertisement.
On the left page, "Sneakers of the Month" is beige. Puma made of hemp material is a little worrisome.
Right page, Sony headphone advertisement. The photo is good, and the catch phrase "Lady will not go out anymore if her hair is broken" is good.
Right page, L'Oreal Bleach advertisement, Yusuke Iseya.
On the right page, the Casio G-SHOCK advertisement is a club. Left page, dumplings.
Left page, DJ DRAGON's used clothing series. On the right page, Casio's META is a collaboration with tomatoes.
Tomato is a London design group that was very popular at the time, and Underworld members are also founding members. Tomato made a name for itself in the 1996 movie Trainspotting, and was often featured in fashion magazines at that time.
Forgotten? Casio's masterpiece watch META
Casio watches such as G-SHOCK and Databank were especially popular in the 90's. Perhaps META was planned for fashion users as well, but the impression that it wasn't so unpleasant ... or rather, I forgot that it even existed until I saw this page. I don't know how it happened at that time, but maybe it was META that Casio developed in response to the hit of Seiko's spoon. Looking back at it now, I think that Japanese design, which has undergone a Galapagos-like evolution in the 90's, is now highly evaluated by foreign countries.
"Culture of the month". The Fuji Rock Festival is the second time. Bjork, Prodigy, Primal Scream and more.
Cool Sony design
Right page, Sony advertisement. A gift of an IC recorder containing Megumi Okina's voice letter. Is the cartoon balloon the image source for the IC recorder? The product name is Voice Balloon, so it may be a balloon. It's a good design, including pop colors. The left page is a Seiko Alba watch and spoon. I think I like META more than this in terms of design.
Sony Walkman advertisement. This shuttle type controller Walkman was also used by me at that time. I think it was a highly complete controller that took advantage of the characteristics of MD, a medium that displays textual information.
Continue to Sony advertising. This is a cassette tape Walkman. Challenging design and color scheme.
Hiroshi Fujiwara's particularly important standard record
The special feature of saddle stitching is "Hiroshi Fujiwara, Basic".
Born in 1980, the late 1990s was a "fashion youth" era. I read a lot of fashion magazines including this issue, and went to many shops in Kobe and Osaka. However, in fact, I have hardly been influenced by Hiroshi Fujiwara. At that time, I wasn't very interested in so-called Ura-Harajuku brands. At that time, I think I was reading this special feature roughly as "Hmm". However, now that more than 20 years have passed, it was quite interesting when I read it again.
First of all, music. The right page is "a corner of Fujiwara's house where the recorder collection is collected", and the left page is "Mr. Fujiwara's particularly important standard record and his own, including the sound that he has been listening to for 10 years from junior high school and high school. It's a work. "
With the convenience of the world, most of the albums listed here are now available on YouTube.
Into Battle /The Art Of Noise
Closing Time/Tom Waits
My Baby Just Cares For Me/Nina Simone
We Are Family/Sister Sledge
The Art Of Tea/Michael Franks
Street Life/The Crusaders
Ambient 1/Brian Eno
Taxi Driver Soundtrack
Maybe Tomorrow/The Jackson 5
Abbey Road/The Beatles
Duck Rock/Malcolm McLaren
On the road/Jesse Colin Young
GIVE PEACE A CHANCE/Plastic Ono Band
The Durutti Column
If you listen to Hiroshi Fujiwara's own music after listening to these, you may have a different feeling.
Next is art. On the right page, you can see Mark Gonzales, an artist also known as a skater. And Hiroshi Fujiwara's comment about the art book I'm introducing is quite interesting. For Bruce Weber, "I don't like all of his work," Basquiat, "Basquiat isn't all good," and Dali, "I don't really like him." I don't know why I'm saying no.
Next, the collection. This is also wearing Fred Perry with Hikaru, a bounty hunter. He also wears Fred Perry on the previous page. Was it your favorite these days? Introduced are BOSE radio cassette recorders, Mac powerbooks, Bang & Olufsen phones, and more.
This page is "Items of any genre collected on the stairs of Fujiwara's house".
I also like Frank Lloyd Wright. When I looked it up, it was 91,300 yen ...
Kanebo advertising. Shingo Katori.
Hiroshi Fujiwara's best wardrobe
Hiroshi Fujiwara Basic, Part 2 is "The fashion, classic and latest".
The intro text is quite a masterpiece.
"The precocious boy who woke up to the IVY in the lower grades of elementary school and the DC brand in the upper grades, and was baptized by the Sex Pistols in the second grade of junior high school, always walked with the fashion of the times. The traditional balance is Hiroshi Fujiwara's basic style. The simple clothes he chooses and wears are nostalgic, yet new, and have the strength to convince us. "
So, this is "intuitive and rational. The best wardrobe of the season".
At the heart of the wardrobe are the Good Enough and Electric Cottage, which he also works on.
There is also Comme des Garcons. Judging from the tag, it seems to be Comme des Garcons Homme that Keiichi Tanaka worked on. "Garcons are expensive, but I always like it," he said. Garcons are also expensive for HF.
I wrote that I wasn't influenced by Hiroshi Fujiwara, but I thought it would be nice to have a flannel shirt with a line on the hem of the electric cottage in the lower right, and I remember painting it with paint and imitating it. .. I'm also influenced.
The T-shirt on the bottom left is also Comme des Garcons Homme.
Hiroshi Fujiwara is the source of the T-shirt layered fashion
The right page is with A.P.C. designer Jean Touitou. The left page is a fashion keyword. Short sleeve, military, stadium blouson.
"A few years ago, when he was traveling in the United States, he wore two short-sleeved T-shirts in half-heat, and then layered shirts and T-shirts became popular in Harajuku." He commented, "The cuteness of the appearance is important, but the rationality comes first." It's interesting to describe it as "cuteness" instead of "coolness".
Fashion keyword continuation. Outdoors, Undercover, pea coats. Burton's snowboard wear, which is introduced in the outdoor activities, is certainly cool.
Undercover legendary collection, items from the exchange period. I also like it.
Relaxing wear, low-tech sneakers, head porters. All sneakers are Vans. The one on the upper right is a double name with Supreme. "Vans sneakers were easy to skateboard, and I like the fact that they are somewhat messy."
The left page is Masatoshi Nagase, who also appeared on the cover. At that time, Masatoshi Nagase was a fashion leader, and he often wore Ura-Harajuku brands, which he had a personal relationship with. Like the cover, his T-shirt is Undercover. The styling is Tomoki Sukezane.
This page also focuses on brands in the Harajuku area, such as Undercover and Wolf's head.
Items other than Ura-Harajuku, such as camouflage pants, are gomme homme items.
Gomme Homme (ladies are gomme) is a brand that still exists. The designer is Hiroshige Maki from Y's. In the 90's, it was one of the leading designer brands in Tokyo, such as exhibiting at the Tokyo collection.
Antwerp brand with many dormant brands
Next, Ryo, who was a fashion leader at the time like Masatoshi Nagase.
The tops and skirts on the right page are Veronique Blanchino. Like Martin Margiela and Dries van Noten, it was a popular brand at the time by a female designer from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp.It seems that the activity is currently suspended.
The knit dress on the left page is A.F. Vandevorst. Like Veronique Branquino, it was a male and female designer duo from the Royal Belgian Academy of Fine Arts, and was also a popular brand at the time.
This is also the end of the brand after the Spring / Summer 2020 collection. Both of them had a strong artistic impression like Antwerp, but it will be difficult to keep the designer brand for more than 20 years.
Popular models still active
The next special feature is "Daily wear of popular models". First of all, Yuan, the most popular model at the time.
When I searched, I found an image of Yuan two years ago. It looks good.
Next, Yusuke Iseya, who has been talking about something recently, and Richt, who is still active as a model in fashion magazines such as UOMO.
Kee. Kiyohiko Shibukawa, who is now an actor, seems to be overwhelmingly famous. From that time on, old clothes had a strong presence in clothes with a main taste.
Satoshi, who also manages fashion brand nonnative now.
Yusuke Oshiba on the right page felt that he liked the unique clothes such as the Chinese army blouson.
Dior perfume ads.
Maxell battery advertising. A wristwatch and Spoon that were popular at that time will be presented.
Bausch Lomb contact lens ads.
Right page, Rag tag ad. As Yusuke Oshiba wore earlier, orange lens sunglasses were popular at that time.
"Midsummer Horror Movies / Books / Games Best 25".
The model scores the summer vacation movie.
Musician interview page. Plectrum, Mr. Suga Shikao.
Movies, books, etc.
Dressing plan. Mainly BEAMS original items.
The velcro sneakers on the bottom right are the Rudic lighters that were very popular at the time.
A simple casual style based on the military, like Helmut Lang at the time.
High school students Yohji, Lang, Vivienne ...
"Announcement of winners of the Fashion Coordination Awards!" Since the date and time of the event was announced in advance and people came to shoot, it seems that the people who were finely textured were the main ones, not the street snapshots that were shot by chance.
The grand prize he is wearing is Christophe Lemaire's T-shirt.
He on the right is wearing Yohji Yamamoto, and he on the left is wearing Comme des Garcons. 1998 was just before I got hooked on Comme des Garcons in earnest.
The judges are Hirofumi Kurino, Tomoki Sukezane, Yasuhiro Mihara and many others. Winners' products such as Prada backpacks and Helmut Lang jeans G Jean are also gorgeous.
W & LT T-shirts and unique accessories.
On the far left, he is 15 years old and has Helmut Lang jeans tops and bottoms.
Wearing popular designer brands such as Helmut Lang Jeans and Raf Simons still stands out.
The pants with rolled-up oranges are beauty beast. Avant-garde brands such as 20471120 Hyoma-kun T-shirts are also popular in the lower right.
Unlike now, half pants and three-quarter length pants are mainly slender.
Such a perfect silhouette was not so rare at that time.
Paint jeans, synonymous with Helmut Lang jeans.
For some reason, couples often wear Vivienne Westwood.
It's amazing that a high school student wearing Vivian's Rockin Horse. It is a characteristic of the 90's that designer brands were so popular that high school students bought them in this way. Unlike Reiwa's life-sized and loose fashion outlook, fashion that strongly asserts itself with unusual clothes was the mainstream. Of course, I was the same at that time. It's like the atmosphere of the times.
Longed-for mid-century furniture
"Let's go with used and recycled interiors! Declaration of used furniture!". By the way, at that time I was living in my parents' house, and it was an hour and a half away from the university I attended, so I was addicted to the habit of not having any friends and no one coming, and I was influenced by these trends and I was enthusiastic about the interior. Was there.
This kind of mid-century furniture was something I longed for.
At that time, I think there were many retro interior shops in Kobe as well.
As you can see on the right page, I used to spray paint my desk in the yard ... what was that passion ...?
I was longing to see it in magazines such as Acme, a used furniture shop.
I couldn't afford the furniture for the designers, but I remember digging out the electric fan that my grandpa used in the past from the garage of my parents' house.
The magazine is also in the final stages. Beauty-related advertisements will increase.
Shueisha Bunko. Ryoko Hirosue.
Bro. Korn for an advertisement for hair loss.
Left page, "Mononoke Hime Information Guide <preserved version>". It seems that it is a size that can be cut out and put in a VHS case.
The cover of Seventeen is Megumi Matsumoto.
Serial page of stylist Yasuyuki Takagi. Kyoko Koizumi.
I strongly remember this photo wearing Chinese clothes of Comme des Garcons. Pretty.
Designer's interview. This is Gaultier.
Gaultier also wears a G-SHOCK! I remember being surprised and intimate at that time.
Designer's interview. Costume National's Enno Capasa. Costume National was also popular at the time. I'm worried about Zima's advertisement on the right page and the lack of unity in the photos ...
Converse. Dennis Rodman.
"A street magazine for a new generation of office workers is born!" The catch phrase "Hirosue screen saver is also included !!" makes me feel the times. At that time, screen savers were quite popular in magazine appendices.
The best jeans in 1997 was Takuya Kimura, Puffy. What a 90s guys.
Notice of the next issue.
Presents are T-shirts from designer brands such as Raf Simons and Helmut Lang Jeans.
Land Cruiser. This seems to be that Toyota Land Cruiser licensed brand.
The back cover is Mitsubishi Motors.